Author Archives: virtualdavis

Arroyo Hondo Panorama

by
Arroyo Hondo Panorama, February 21, 2016
Arroyo Hondo Panorama, February 21, 2016

Arroyo Hondo Panorama, February 21, 2016

Like a prairie dog popping up out of a hole in New Mexico’s high desert, I stood for a few minutes on a mound of earth near my friends home in Arroyo Hondo, surveying the late winter afternoon, the distant Sandia Mountains, the open space interrupted only by occasional chamisa and pinon,…

A photograph can’t quite take you there, but it just might tempt you to discover Northern New Mexico for yourself. Or to come back if it’s been a while since your last visit. There’s beauty and power and magic in these wide open places!

 

The Interior Life of Georgia O’Keeffe

by
Dawn Tripp

I’ve just started Georgia: A Novel of Georgia O’Keeffe by Dawn Tripp ( ). One of my favorite subjects! I’ll update this post once I’m finished…

Dawn Tripp imagines the interior life of Georgia O’Keeffe (Source: The Boston Globe)

Dawn Tripp imagines the interior life of Georgia O’Keeffe (Source: The Boston Globe)

I didn’t want to write the story of the O’Keeffe we know, but how she became the O’Keeffe we know. I wanted to reveal how perceptions of her have been shadowed by the gendered politics she faced as a female artist in a predominantly male art world. I focused on the years she lived in New York with [Alfred] Stieglitz, because those were the years her art was recognized, when she fell in love, when she made those artistic innovations and choices that set the course of the rest of her life. It was relevant to women and artists years ago, and it’ll be relevant years from now. (Source: A novelist imagines the interior life of Georgia O’Keeffe – The Boston Globe)

Reviews of  Dawn Tripp’s Georgia

Dawn Tripp's novel, Georgia

Dawn Tripp’s novel, Georgia

In this masterly novel, Dawn Tripp erases the boundary between writer and character, bringing O’Keefe’s voice, essence, and vision to life. Georgia is a dazzling, brilliant work about the struggle between artist and woman, between self and the other, between love and the necessity to break free of it. The luminous sensuality of the writing glows from every page, drawing the reader into the splendor and machinations of the New York City art world between the wars, revealing both Georgia O’Keeffe and Dawn Tripp as the great artists they are. ~ B. A. Shapiro (author of The Art Forger and The Muralist)

Georgia O’Keeffe’s life became legendary even as she was living it, something she both invited and fought against. This is the fascinating tension at the heart of Dawn Tripp’s novel—a book that, like O’Keeffe’s paintings, is lush and rigorous, bold and subtle, sensual, cranky, deeply felt, and richly imagined. ~ Joan Wickersham (author of The News from Spain)

American artist Georgia O’Keeffe blazes across the pages in Tripp’s tour de force about this indomitable woman, whose life was both supported and stymied by the love of her life, photographer and art promoter Alfred Stieglitz… [Readers] will feel the passion that infused her work and love life that emboldened her canvases.,, The relationship between Stieglitz and O’Keeffe, and her metamorphosis from lover to wife to jilted partner, is poignantly drawn. Tripp has hit her stride here, bringing to life one of the most remarkable artists of the twentieth century with veracity, heart, and panache. (Publishers Weekly)

Masterful… The book is a lovely portrayal of an iconic artist who is independent and multidimensional. Tripp’s O’Keeffe is a woman hoping to break free of conventional definitions of art, life and gender, as well as a woman of deep passion and love. (Milwaukee Journal Sentinel)

Tripp inhabits Georgia’s psyche so deeply that the reader can practically feel the paintbrush in hand as she creates her abstract paintings.

Georgia is a uniquely American chronicle… and, in the end, a book about a talent so fierce it crushed pretty much everything in its path—a rare story of artistic triumph… Tripp expertly makes drama of two traditional themes in the O’Keeffe story—the romance with Stieglitz and the development of her art—but it’s the track about her art and his management of it and her struggle not to be dominated by him that makes her novel compelling… In most first-person novels, the character talks to you. Here, she recollects with you—in her heart as well as her head. Which is to say that Dawn Tripp writes in much the same way as O’Keeffe painted: in vivid color and subtle shade. (The Huffington Post)

As magical and provocative as O’Keeffe’s lush paintings of flowers that upended the art world in the 1920s . . . [Dawn] Tripp inhabits Georgia’s psyche so deeply that the reader can practically feel the paintbrush in hand as she creates her abstract paintings and New Mexico landscapes. . . . Evocative from the first page to the last, Tripp’s Georgia is a romantic yet realistic exploration of the sacrifices one of the foremost artists of the twentieth century made for love. (USA Today)

Radish & Rye Restaurant

by
Radish & Rye takes chances that mostly pay off (Source: ABQJournal Online)

Radish & Rye farm inspired cuisine in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Last night my bride and I ventured over to Radish & Rye (radishandrye.com and @RadishandRye), a newish farm inspired restaurant in Santa Fe. Simply put: it was awesome! Great eats, drinks, ambience, and service.

Located in the former location of Ristra (one of my Santa Fe favorites looong ago), Radish & Rye’s decor and overall atmosphere is minimalist but elegant. The mood is calm and laid back but not sloppy. Our waiter was attentive and knowledgable, several times consulting the kitchen to ensure that our orders could be balanced with our dietary restrictions. Both our waiter (Dario) and the chef (David Gaspar de Alba) were friendly and accommodating despite requests to alter ingredients, etc.

Potables and Comestibles

I felt briefly like I’d eaten my meal backwards, starting with desert, but the bourbon quickly anesthetized any sense of guilt.

Radish & Rye’s menu is heavily meat-based, initially posing some challenges for my vegetarian bride. She was thrilled with the abundance of local, farm fresh veggies, and she easily cobbled together an exciting meal. My gluten free and dairy free restrictions posed more challenge with the signature cocktails menu than the victuals.

Radish & Rye is proud of their expansive bourbon collection, and they offer up an imaginative list of bourbon-based drinks including their twist on a B&B consisting of bacon infused bourbon and maple powder. Marrying three of life’s greatest pleasures in a single glass, how could I pass this up? Unfortunately the infused bourbon (and all/most of their signature cocktails) are based on 90 proof Buffalo Trace (they purchased barrel #07-D-16-L-3-70 exclusively for their own use) which is not gluten free. But our waiter suggested a tasty alternative that was gluten free. I infrequently order sweet drinks (or fruit based drinks) but my grog of Maker’s Mark, pear purée, and another feel-good ingredient I’ve forgotten served hot was enchanting. I felt briefly like I’d eaten my meal backwards, starting with desert, but the bourbon quickly anesthetized any sense of guilt.

My bride started with the Fried Green Tomato served with pimento cheese and chili “threads”, and I started with the Duck Rillette served mixed greens (normally served with crostini, but switched to be gluten free in my case) and pickled baby turnip wedges. My ramiken-sized pot of rillette was perfectly sized and as decadent as any duck rillette I’ve ever eaten in Paris (or anywhere for that matter!) Replacing crostini with mixed greens was an inspired solution, and a perfect balance for the richness of the rillette. We also shared a third small plate, the Brussel Sprouts, Oyster Mushrooms, and Pickled Chile. Crisped (gluten free) onions crowned this woodsy winter dish, highlighting the subtle sweetness of the caramelized sprouts. The earthiness of the sautéed mushrooms and the faintly bitter interiors of the sprouts added depth and complexity which mingled moodily with forkfuls of rillette and mixed greens.

We both agreed that our starters would have made a rick and fulfilling meal by themselves, but why abbreviate our decadence? Needless to say, we didn’t.

Mesquite Grilled Ribeye at Radish & Rye

Mesquite Grilled Ribeye at Radish & Rye

I switched over to the house Syrah to complement my rare / medium rare Mesquite Grilled Ribeye served with chimichurri and a miniature cellar of sea salt. I also ordered a side of Braised Greens, and before I even managed to sink my fork into the steak or the veggies, the coupling aromas enraptured me. Smoky, pungent, exotic. The greens were prepared with some sort of smoky pork. The steak was tender and well marbled. Our conversation lulled as I savored bite after bit of hardy winter decadence. The Syrah was a perfect match. I was exceedingly happy… with everything. Except my steak was enormous. Enormous!

Chanterelle Risotto at Radish & Rye

Chanterelle Risotto at Radish & Rye

My bride enjoyed the Chanterelle Risotto with Pecorino but sans caramelized fennel (per her request). She devoured it, though [obviously] in a delicate, lady-like way. That is, if the lady had not eaten in a looong time! Two thumbs up from her on everything including a creative twist on pumpkin pie, crustless, served in a small mason jar. Curious looking presentation, but it elicited all of the ooohhhs and aaahhhs that a decadent final course should elicit.

From start to finish our meal was a tour de force. Thanks, Dario and David. We plan to return to Radish & Rye soon. See you there!

Radish & Rye Reviews

If you’re suspicious of my personal experience, here are a few other perspectives to diversify the recommendation.

The food at Radish & Rye is distinctly Southern — not in a “deep-fried heart attack” way but in a “fresh from grandma’s farm” way… The emphasis is on farm-fresh produce (90 percent of which is from the Santa Fe Farmers Market) and a refreshingly eclectic selection of meats, many of which are smoked outside on the porch. The menu is definitely geared toward the old-fashioned carnivore, featuring grilled pork chops served with smoked pork belly, polenta and earthy morel mushrooms, back ribs with Carolina glaze, duck rillettes (a kind of paté), a seared lamb rib served with flageolet beans and roasted root vegetables… “We have a Southern twist and a little French influence, but really it’s just fresh, clean, basic food prepared in an innovative way,” [co-owner Camille] Bremer says. “We just wanted to create a restaurant that we wanted to eat at.” (Source: The Santa Fe New Mexican)

Radish & Rye takes chances that mostly pay off

Radish & Rye takes chances that mostly pay off (Source: ABQJournal Online)

[Radish & Rye offers] high-end cuisine stressing imaginative combinations of familiar ingredients… that includes a panoply of “small plates” and a bare handful of “larger plates” (qualifying as main courses in the old way of thinking). And plenty of bourbon – whiskey drinkers may love the selection, which runs to a full page in the drinks menu. (Source: ABQJournal Online)

Memorize this: “Corn chowder with green chile and smoked bone marrow”. This is the pinnacle of chef Alba’s small-plate greatness. Creamy, silky-smooth corn chowder with potatoes, green chile and a few floating jalapeño slices to surprise you, all topped with a Flintstones-sized bone stuffed with tender, greasy smoked beef marrow… (Source: Santa Fe Reporter)

Radish & Rye promises a spread of fresh farm finds and over 50 varieties of bourbon. Every Tuesday and Saturday, chef David Gaspar de Alba visits the Farmer’s Market to inspire his seasonal dishes with small plates like a warming corn chowder with bone marrow and green chili and steak tartare using alabria chili, lime oil and quail yoke. Bigger portions like seared lamb’s rib with salsa verde, flageolet and roasted roots pair nicely with vegetable sides including braised greens. Afterwards, slip into the bar for a nightcap, cocktails are courtesy master mixologist and sommelier Quinn Mark Stephenson. (Source: AFAR.com)

Violet Crown Santa Fe

by
Violet Crown Santa Fe
Violet Crown Santa Fe: Santa Fe spin-off of Austin-based cinema

Violet Crown Santa Fe (Source: Santa Fe Reporter)

I’m pleased to report on our thoroughly enjoyable evening at Violet Crown Santa Fe (Santa Fe Railyard, 1606 Alcaldesa Street, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501, 505-216-5678, santafe.violetcrowncinemas.com) last night. Here’s the skinny.

Violet Crown Santa Fe’s 11 auditoriums feature state of the art technology, wall-to-wall screens, and large and luxurious cinema chairs. (Source: Violet Crown Cinema, Santa Fe )

Too skinny! Aside from the excellent location, the food (and refreshments) are what sets this cinema apart. Here are a few of my reactions after an enjoyable first visit.

Food+Film Fusion in Santa Fe Railyard

Violet Crown Santa Fe is located adjacent to Santa Fe Farmers Market in Santa Fe’s Railyard District, ideal walking distance from Adobe Oasis. (If you’d rather drive, you can park for free (4-hour max) in The Railyard parking garage. Just bring your parking ticket to the cinema and request validation.) It was cold, so we drove. But next next we’ll walk to burn off the calories…

No, not a jumbo bucket of popcorn with ersatz butter. Local food. Tasty local food.

I started with the brussel sprouts.

Brussels sprouts are… flash-fried for crispy outer leaves and lightly lacquered in a sweet-tart apple-cider gastrique, but ours needed some par-cooking — their tough, overly firm centers made for onerous chewing. (Source: Laurel Gladden, Santa Fe New Mexican)

Mine were tasty (I added bacon which complemented the garlic, red onion, and apple cider gastric perfectly) but likewise undercooked. Almost impossible to skewer with my fork, especially in the dark. I’ll order them again next time, but I’ll request that they pre-steam or parboil mine.

I also ordered the chicken flautas which were crispy and even tastier than I had anticipated. I kept wondering if cheese had been added despite being absent from the ingredients listed on the menu:

All natural chipotle chicken rolled in New Mexico blue corn tortillas, quick fried until crisp, with guacamole and jicama salad. (Source: Violet Crown Cinema, Santa Fe )

They were delicious, but the texture and richness of the chipotle chicken suggested cheese. I’ve been dairy free for several years, so perhaps it was just my mind playing games. Next time I’ll ask before I order. And if there’s no cheese I’ll order again. And again. They were that good. Perfect movie noshes!

I washed everything down with Santa Sidra dry cider which they offer on draft in addition to dozens of other local brews. This is luxury enough, a vast selection of microbrewer beer to lubricate your next film. Win-win.

Reservations, Seating & Timing

We discovered dining tables that folded out (à la airplane dining) and generously proportioned drink holders.

No more waiting in line unless you relish pre-film banter against a backdrop of popcorn and french fry aroma. Violet Crown Santa Fe seats are all reserved (Bonus: no scrambling in the dark for good seats!) online (in advance) or at the cinema. We purchased our tickets online and it was quick, easy, and user friendly. You even get to pick your own seats. By reserving and paying online we were able to skip the ticket line and head straight to the food ordering counter.

Since it can take a little time to prepare your meal, Violet Crown Santa Fe recommends arriving about 45 minutes before screening in order to ensure that your drinks and meal are ready for you to bring in to the theater. We bumped into friends while waiting and enjoyed a drink together. We refueled just as our meals were delivered and headed in to see The Big Short. We located our comfortable chairs and happily discovered dining tables that folded out (à la airplane dining) and generously proportioned drink holders that easily accommodated our pints.

Innovation & Reinvention

Unless you’ve been living under a rock for the last decade or so you’ve realized that movie theaters are struggling to adapt to new consumer habits. The convenience and accessibility of on-demand digital entertainment has cut into once standard go-to-the-movies habit of many Americans. Despite the superior viewing experience of a large screen with great sound, I frequently find myself one of only a handful of viewers in an immense theater. Violet Crown Santa Fe responds to this social shift by combining comfort, fresh films, local food, and lots of libations.

Railyard’s new Violet Crown ups the ante for films in SF

Railyard’s new Violet Crown ups the ante for films in SF (Source: Albuquerque Journal)

“We’re trying to marry the two things” – food and film – “in the most pleasant viewing experience we can imagine,” said Bill Banowsky. “We want to give people a reason to get off their couches and come down to our cinema,” he said. “That’s the biggest challenge for theaters anymore… You really have to change the experience so that people really have a reason to go out to a movie.” (Source: Albuquerque Journal)

In short, Violet Crown Santa Fe is reimagining the cinema experience.

Like every other industry reeling from the effects of globalization and a dizzying pace of technological innovation, cinema is in the midst of reinvention. Jacques Paisner, executive director and co-founder of the Santa Fe Independent Film Festival… said Violet Crown’s opening is a harbinger of the city’s willingness to evolve accordingly. (Source: Santa Fe New Mexican)

Smaller, more intimate viewing rooms combined with good food and drink seems like the perfect way to reinvent movie theaters. I’m thrilled with this newest Railyard addition, and my bride and I are already plotting our next visit. See you at Violet Crown Santa Fe!

Blake + Bacon = New Taos Ski Valley

by
Mix of New and Old Enlivens Taos Ski Valley (Source: The New York Times)

Mix of New and Old Enlivens Taos Ski Valley (Source: The New York Times)

I’d like to pass along a Technicolor Taos tease as featured yesterday in the The New York Times. Christopher Solomon’s “Mix of New and Old Enlivens Taos Ski Valley” is a stunning, well developed look at the current evolution of New Mexico’s prize cache for expert skiers. Solomon invites the reader on a virtual tour of some of the new (or, more accurately, now-more-accessible) adrenaline inducing terrain, and he seamlessly braids in the mountain’s unique history and culture.

The story of Taos’s founding, and the story of its visionary, Ernie Blake, are one of the most colorful strands in the fabric of America’s ski history: how a deft-skiing Swiss immigrant tried to join the 10th Mountain Division in World War II but was denied because of suspicions he was a spy; how the Army instead changed his surname from the Jewish “Bloch” to “Blake” and enlisted him as a translator, during which he interrogated some of the biggest names in the Third Reich; and how, after war’s end, he went looking for a place to start a ski resort. People said his choice, near the end of a lonesome valley in the shadow of 13,161-foot Wheeler Peak, the state’s roof, was too steep, too remote and too challenging. But Blake pursued his vision. With the help of a young wife and a mule named Lightning he hacked Taos Ski Valley into existence. (Source: Mix of New and Old Enlivens Taos Ski Valley – The New York Times)

Mix of New and Old Enlivens Taos Ski Valley (Source: The New York Times)

Mix of New and Old Enlivens Taos Ski Valley (Source: The New York Times)

Santa Fe Coworking: CoLAB at Second Street Studios

by
Coworker conference room in CoLAB at Second Street Studios, Santa Fe, NM
Work stations in CoLAB at Second Street Studios, Santa Fe, NM

Work stations in CoLAB at Second Street Studios, Santa Fe, NM

During a recent extended stay at Adobe Oasis I needed an dedicated workspace for a project that I was working on. Familiar with coworker spaces in theory but not in practice, I was excited to discover CoLAB at Second Street Studios.

CoLAB is a progressive work environment providing a month-to-month desk rental for the independent creative entrepreneur and businessperson… CoLAB is a community of motivated, creative individuals who are interested in changing how work gets done, services get delivered, products get built, and where awesome stuff happens. (CoLAB at Second Street Studios)

If you’re unfamiliar with the coworker concept, owner/developer Wayne Nichols offered this explanation in a February 7, 2011 interview.

[CoLAB] has a much fuller set of facilities (than) a home office at the same time offering the independence and flexibility of a home office. It’s part of a trend that allows people to work independently and to connect into large aggregations. ~ Wayne Nichols (The Santa Fe New Mexican)

I am drawn to the scalability and collaborative potential of coworker environments in general, but my recent interest was driven primarily by the need for a distraction-free, easily accessible, dedicated workspace where I could edit and revise a manuscript. In many respects CoLab fit the bill.

Here’s how graphic/web designer Raul Chico Goler explained the benefit of coworking at CoLab in an August 29, 2011 interview.

I was tired of working at home. When I am here at CoLAB, I am much more focused and self-disciplined. It is also much nicer to bring clients here, rather than meeting in a coffee shop. We have a great conference room, and everything I need is here. ~ Raul Chico Goler (santafe.com)

In addition to the design-forward conference room with digital projection capability these are addition amenities included for CoLAB coworkers (as listed on their website, colabatsecondstreet.com.)

  • Desk, locked file, chair, desk lamp and personal storage.
  • Networked printer, scanner & copier.
  • 24/7 access for tenants of CoLAB with a secure swipe key.
  • 2 Lounge areas for relaxing or client meetings.
  • Kitchen and dining area with coffee services.
  • Production copy machine and collating work area.
  • Commercial broadband Internet/network (wired and wireless).
  • Utilities and basic janitorial service included.
  • Ongoing professional development workshops.

And that’s just the nuts and bolts. Minimalist but handsome design elements distinguish the coworker space, and the location – smack dab in the middle of Second Street Studios – promises hip, creative neighbors. Learn more at colabatsecondstreet.com, and browse the photo gallery below for a glimpse into Santa Fe’s dedicated coworker environment.

CoLAB Photo Gallery

Entrance to CoLAB at Second Street Studios, Santa Fe, NM
Coworker common areas in CoLAB at Second Street Studios, Santa Fe, NM
Coworker conference room in CoLAB at Second Street Studios, Santa Fe, NM
Coworker lounge in CoLAB at Second Street Studios, Santa Fe, NM
Coworker lounge in CoLAB at Second Street Studios, Santa Fe, NM

Contact CoLAB

To schedule an appoint, call 505.699.7280 or swing by the office located at 1807 Second Street #10, Santa Fe, NM 87505.

Coworking Resources

To learn more about the coworking concept check out the following books and articles:

Related articles

Georgia of Santa Fe: Fine Dining à la O’Keeffe

by

Georgia in Santa Fe

Last night we enjoyed our second memorable evening at Georgia (georgiasantafe.com) in a week. Our first dinner – in the bar with friends – was delicious, but not only in terms of victuals and potables. Our server was the highlight of our outing. I’m sorry to have forgotten her name, but her smile, laughter and eagerness to ensure a perfect experience stick with me. The Manhattan was exceptional, calamari smoky and fresh, wine oh-so-fine, and braised short ribs out of this world.

Indeed our first experience was so enjoyable that we returned before the experience could fade in our memories.

Imagine a slightly nutty, balsamic and caper-spiked indulgence… A half portion would well have sufficed, but I devoured them all.

For round two we ate in the dining room with my visiting parents. The elegant minimalism (impeccably edited, not spartan design) of the bar is perfected in the dining room. Georgia O’Keeffe presides in black and white over a dining room she might well have concocted herself if she were still with us. I started with crispy Brussels sprouts. Sound mundane? Hardly! Imagine a slightly nutty, balsamic and caper-spiked indulgence… A half portion would well have sufficed, but I devoured them all. A Flintstone-worthy lamb shank served over spinach was tasty if 4x too large. But once again, I ate everything, new year’s resolutions be damned.

My review would remain incomplete without a nod to Grant, our enthusiastic and thoroughly charming server. A handsome twist on Jim Carrey (with a jigger of Max Headroom), his wine recommendation was the welcome mat for a delightful one man show that kept us laughing and joyful. Thanks, Georgia and Grant, for a perfect night.

Fine Dining à la O’Keeffe

Is Georgia really fine dining à la O’Keeffe? I’d like to think so. On the one hand, the decor offers a modern echo of the stark, simple, minimalist but handsome aesthetic that Georgia O’Keeffe favored in her New Mexico homes. As for the artist’s dining preferences, cookbooks suggest a similarly restrained palate. I have prepared some of the meals she apparently favored after a day’s work in Abiquiu or at Ghost Ranch, and while sometimes hardy, they are created with few ingredients and no fuss. Chef Brett Sparman’s dishes are superior to the quotidian fair that often passes for home cooking nowadays, but they are carefully edited and ingredient-forward. They are precise, not precious, and they are consistently delicious. I suspect that the restaurant’s namesake would have approved.

Georgia Q&A

Have I piqued your interest? Here is some helpful information to help transform that interest into a reservation.

Q: Where is Georgia located?
A: Georgia is located at 225 Johnson Street in Santa Fe next door to the iconic Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.

Q: When is Georgia open?
A: Georgia serves dinner seven days a week beginning at 5:30pm. Georgia celebrates daily happy hour in the tavern between 4:00 and 6:00pm.

Q: Does Georgia offer outdoor service?
A: Georgia serves dinner on the patio in the summer and fall.

Q: Do I need a reservation?
A: While Georgia welcomes walk-ins, I would encourage you to make a reservation – especially during summer and holidays – to ensure that you can be accommodated according to your preferences. To make a reservation you can call 505-989-GEORGIA (4367) or book online through OpenTable.

Q: Does George permit pets on the patio?
A: Georgia welcomes leashed, well-mannered pets for patio dining during the summer and fall.

Q: Does Georgia have a website where I can find more information?
A: You can learn more about Georgia (and view more photographs) at georgiasantafe.com.

Any more questions? Add them in the comments and we’ll try to answer them or pass them along to Chef Sparman and his team.

Georgia Reviews

Dining at Georgia is memorable in all the right ways. But don’t just take my word for it.

Georgia reflects professional management from start to finish. For example,… drive right up to the entrance and a valet will park your car for you. No hassle involved and a gracious way to solve… [the Santa Fe parking] problem.

Georgia’s patio is one of Santa Fe’s nicest and the interior space is elegantly simple, in keeping with the artist Georgia O’Keeffe’s inspiration. (Albuquerque Journal News, August 29, 2014)

Top billing goes to the gluten-free spiced crusted tuna—a perfectly seared pair of tuna medallions topped with a Turkish anchovy, shaved radish, sprouts and a red piquillo pepper relish and with hidden caper surprises ($14). Chef Brett Sparman’s version of ubiquitous and mighty kale salad uses cranberries and hazelnuts plus a tangy, light and salty dressing ($11). I could have eaten a larger portion of either one for the main course. (Santa Fe Reporter, July 29, 2014)

There is a real absence in Santa Fe of the type of restaurant we wanted to create, that we think other cities have,” Lloyd [Abrams, co-owner] explains. “And that’s an in-town country club. A place that’s elegant and sophisticated, but where people can eat every week.” The idea is that when people come to Georgia, the staff and owners know not only their name, but also where they like to sit and what they like to eat. Service is upscale but personable, and the dishes are simple and approachable, so people will want to come in often. (Local Flavor, June 30, 2014)

Tired of the restaurant scene in Santa Fe, business partners Lloyd Abrams and Terry Sweeney designed and built Georgia — once home of the O’Keeffe Café — to inject life back into the local dining sector.

“This place is pretty unique and offers a level service that’s different from what people typically find in Santa Fe,” [chef Brett] Sparman said. “We really want to create a personal experience [for diners] … and help liven up the restaurant scene.” (The Santa Fe New Mexican: Taste, June 3, 2014)

Izanami at Ten Thousand Waves

by
Lanterns handmade for Izanami in Nagoya. (Credit: izanami via Facebook)
Lanterns handmade for Izanami in Nagoya. (Credit: izanami via Facebook)

Lanterns handmade for Izanami in Nagoya. (Credit: izanami via Facebook)

Last night we finally made it to izanami at Ten Thousand Waves in Santa Fe. What in the world we’re we waiting for? It’s fantastic!

I arrived at izanami shortly after sunset. The upper lots were already full, so I parked near the entrance and romanced the lantern-lit, stone lined ascent to the spa. The moon was still swollen, the temperature was falling and piñon smoke perfumed the air. Striding across the parking lot from the spa to the restaurant I saw the fountain frozen into sensuous Botero-esque mounds of ice.

Frozen fountain at izanami restaurant in Santa Fe (Credit: izanami)

Frozen fountain at izanami restaurant in Santa Fe (Credit: izanami)

My bride and step brother-in-law were practically glowing, blissfully sedate after soaking and massages. The perfect prologue to a parade of small, delicate dishes. I’ll give you a brief recap of the edibles (and potables) in a moment, but first a little bit about this exotic Santa Fe dining oasis.

Our restaurant, izanami… is izakaya dining, serving exquisite Japanese-inspired small plates in a casual farmhouse setting. We feature robata-style meats and vegetables grilled over charcoal, salads, fresh tofu, melt-in-your-mouth wagyu beef, lightly-fried kushiage, house-made pickles, great coffee, desserts, and the best selection of Japanese beer and artisanal sake west of New York and east of Tokyo. (Ten Thousand Waves)

90% of our pork, chicken, wagyu beef, and produce is organic or sustainably raised by purveyors we know and trust. fresh ingredients are emphasized in all our preparations. we make our own desserts, ice cream, and pickles in house. (izanami.com)

You can sit on the floor, small table, counter, community table, or a booth. And the food – out of this world! What a welcome addition to our restaurant community… (Simply Santa Fe)

Sometimes it takes a Buddhist priest to build a food temple.

Welcome indeed! And delicious. But before diving into the tasty meal we enjoyed, let’s return briefly to the “casual farmhouse setting”. Here’s an even better description of Izanami’s unique environment.

Carved from the side of a mountain and named for a Japanese deity, Izanami is a luscious segue from the spa. Ceramic tiles grace the restaurant roof; a rocky waterfall near the entrance makes for a soothing soundtrack. The interior, fashioned from antique posts, rice-paper lanterns and twisted beams, whisks you even farther away from the American Southwest. Izanami’s woodworker, Jon Driscoll, is a resort rarity: He’s both an in-house master craftsman at Ten Thousand Waves and an ordained Buddhist priest. (The Washington Post)

Sometimes it takes a Buddhist priest to build a food temple. And that lofty description isn’t so much an exaggeration as you might imagine. Maybe a chapel?

No matter how refreshing the space, I was still tempted by the liquid refreshments. I started with a hibiscus spritzer of sorts. Sexy color; soothing flavor. I wouldn’t mind a water bottle or two or this elixir during my next skin up to the top of the ski basin.

And then there was sake. I’m an unabashed sake neophyte, so I leaned on the wisdom of our friendly waiter. He was passionate about the nearly two full pages of offerings. Turns out the sake offerings are a point of pride for Team Izanami. We ordered a bottle of yuki no bosha “cabin in the snow” yamahai which the menu described as “yamahai junmai. mellow, rich, nutty, full.” Mellow, for sure. Nutty? Not so sure my sake sensors are well developed enough to discern the nuts, but it was a delightful complement to our meal and a good recommendation.

It’s worth nothing here that Izanami is Japanese-style izakaya. I’ll defer to Gordon Heady, Izanami’s sake-guru, to flesh out the the concept.

The term “izakaya” is new to many. It’s an informal restaurant (I liken it to a tavern) designed to encourage the sharing of food and drink; celebrating life; and enjoying camaraderie with friends or even strangers.

As you can imagine, sake plays a vital role in izakaya-life! ~ Gordon Heady (Sake Church: 10,000 Waves, Izanami, and My New Home)

Camaraderie and sake were already weaving wonders when the exquisitely plated victuals began to arrive. First to arrive was a light and healthy salad of asian pear, Brussels sprouts and pomegranate seeds served over kabocha pumpkin puree. Crispy and delicious. It tasted and seemed spa-healthy, so I didn’t feel overly decadent following it with a bit of decadence: two fans of thinly sliced avocado served with homemade wasabi and something called “kishibori artisan shoyu”. Mystery ingredient. Yum.

Sliced beef, as perfectly marbled and flavorful as any Kobe beef you’ve ever sampled, arrives at the table raw for diners to cook on a hot stone.

My vegetarian wife repeatedly raved about her cauliflower goma with awase miso and toasted sesame dressing, so I finally tried it. And then tried some more. And more. I passed on a taste of the parsnip almond soup with preserved kumquats and toasted almonds, but it also received rave reviews from my companions. Another vegetarian hit was the sake braised shimeji mushrooms. My wife asked them to skip the shoyu butter sauce but the delicate miniatures served with togarashi and bean sprouts were subtle and addictive.

Izanami's sake braised shimeji mushrooms (Photo: izanami)

Izanami’s sake braised shimeji mushrooms (Photo: izanami)

As delightful to prepare as it was to eat, the wagyu beef ishiyaki is not to be missed. Sliced beef, as perfectly marbled and flavorful as any Kobe beef you’ve ever sampled, arrives at the table raw for diners to cook on a hot stone. Fun. Aromatic. Delicious. Two tasty sauces come with the beef, but after enjoying both I savored the remaining wagyu beef solo. It’s that good.

Wagyu beef ishiyaki (Photo: izanami)

Wagyu beef ishiyaki (Photo: izanami)

Another favorite was a comparatively large dish of fried brussels sprouts served with bonito flakes and sweet chile vinegar, bonito flakes. Slightly nutty and crunchy. They were the perfect complement to the wagyu beef ishiyaki. I can’t wait to try and make these at home. I suspect that the deceptively simply dish may be more challenging to perfect that first impressions suggest…

Izanami's fried brussels sprouts (Credit: izanami)

Izanami’s fried brussels sprouts (Credit: izanami)

I’ve overlooked the tempura avocado and squash with ponzu sauce that enthused my companions. Unfortunately it was not gluten free (though most of the dishes on the menu that enticed me were gluten free!) but I appreciated – audibly, vicariously – this dish which my bride was tempted to order in duplicate. She resisted, but just barely. I also overlooked the shichimi fries with yuzu aioli. Not because they weren’t divine. But any sentient being would assume they were divine. They were.

In any sybaritic procession there’s a trailer. The organic chicken breast skewers with Japanese leek and ginger teriyaki glaze were palatable but bland. Not enough of a disappointment to detract from an otherwise perfect evening, but worth skipping if you collect exciting, memorable flavors. That said, the preparation is attractive, and if you have a sensitive belly or just prefer an ultra light dab of protein following your massage, you may enjoy the chicken skewers.

Lest I wrap up on a less-than-exuberant note, know that we loved our meal and we’ll return soon. And next time I’m hoping to try the pork belly!

Farolito Walk on Canyon Road

by
Canyon Road Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)
Canyon Road Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)

Canyon Road Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)

I lived in Santa Fe for four years in the 1990s and since then I’ve returned often, but until this Wednesday I’d never before witnessed the Christmas Eve Farolito Walk on Canyon Road. And what an enchanted experience it is!

Although the photos that my wife and I snapped do no justice to the sights, sounds, smells and joy of the the Farolito Walk, I hope that they’ll at least provoke your curiosity enough to inspire your own Christmas Eve visit to Santa Fe.

One of Santa Fe’s most beloved holiday traditions, the Canyon Road Farolito Walk, lights up the hearts and souls of thousands who promenade this famous path on Christmas Eve.

Small, sand-filled, paper bags illuminated with votive candles line the historic neighborhood streets and adobe walls. Carolers gather around the farolitos Spanish for paper lantern; diminutive of farol, lantern; from faro, lighthouse, lantern; from Latin pharus, from Pharus, Pharos or luminarias small bonfires, and sing for joy as they warm themselves, and our hearts, from the cold night. (Santa Fe’s Farolito Walk on Canyon Road)

The Farolito Walk is focused around Canyon Road, but Acequia Madre and much of Garcia Street are also lined with farolitos and luminarios. Many festive revelers process around a large loop starting at the bottom of Canyon Road, proceeding up to Monte Sol and then looping back down Aceqia Madre. The smell of burning piñon and both familiar and unfamiliar Christmas carols invite lingering. Strangers greet one another with spirited holiday wishes, and galleries offer treats and a chance to view art by night.

The following snapshots offer a fuzzy glimpse at the Farolito Walk. (You can click on any image to enlarge.)

Acequia Madre Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)
Acequia Madre Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)
Canyon Road Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)
Canyon Road Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)
Canyon Road Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)
Canyon Road Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)
Canyon Road Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)
Canyon Road Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)
Canyon Road Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)
Canyon Road Farolito Walk in Santa Fe, NM (December 24, 2014)

Farolito Walk 2012

We didn’t record any video footage, but this YouTube video by Lou Novick nicely captures the Farolito Walk.

Farolito Walk 2009

And here’s another video of the Farolito Walk, this one uploaded to YouTube by Jay Empty.

Ski Santa Fe: Uphill Skiers Responsibility Code

by
Skinning Santa Fe
Skinning Santa Fe: Time to review the "Uphill Skiers Responsibility Code"?

Skinning Santa Fe: Time to review the “Uphill Skiers Responsibility Code”?

Too early to think about skiing? I think not! I’m heading into my third year as a telemark skier. And I can’t wait for the snow to fly! Early December will see me skinning Santa Fe Ski Basin 3-4 times a week, and in anticipation, I’ve decided to take a look at their “Uphill Skiers Responsibility Code“.

But first a little back story tracing my recent transition to telemark skiing…

Toward Telemark

I grew up downhill (alpine) and cross country (nordic) skiing. I enjoyed both. But a few days of downhill each winter was more than enough for me. And cross country dwindled by middle school. Not enough time. Too many competing interests like competitive swimming.

In my twenties I moved to Santa Fe and discovered “real” downhill skiing. Lots of dry, powdery snow. Lots of steep, underpopulated terrain. Lots of blue sky! I couldn’t get enough of it. And with Santa Fe as my “home mountain” and Taos just a short-ish ride away, I logged more days on the slopes each winter than I had in all my previous years combined. I became a competent skier. And I had a blast.

Victory: Skinning Santa Fe

Victory: Skinning Santa Fe

Then I moved to Paris and spent four years in the Alps rediscovering once again the thrill and beauty of prime skiing conditions.

Back in the United States I continued to chase challenging terrain and push my limits. My bride and I have season passes at Whiteface Mountain in Lake Placid, NY and we try to spend a good chunk of time in the Southwest. Although Santa Fe is our home mountain, I also spent a week at Taos. Some winters we squeeze in another ski destination like Jackson Hole or Whistler Blackcomb. In short, we love to ski.

But a few years ago I got curious about telemark skiing. I’d been enjoying the elegant tele turns from chairlifts for years, growing gradually more intrigued. And then I skied with a friend who’s the most powerful, beautiful telemark skier I’ve ever witnessed. And I decided to look into it.

I read a little. I watched some videos. But mostly I started talking to tele skiers about their experience. And the more I learned, the more I realized that I wanted to make the leap. In my mind, the change represented a transition from skiing that banged me up to skiing that made me stronger and healthier. It also flip-flopped the dynamics with my bride, turning me into a remedial telemark skier trying to keep up with her. This meant better exercise and more skiing together. Win-win.

From Telemark to Skinning

From telemark skiing downhill to skinning uphill was the next big change. We still enjoy lift service, but there’s no better way to whip the legs and lungs into shape than earning the slopes in December. (Not to mention that uphill skinning opens up a whole world of skiing beyond the pistes!)

Last year was my first season of skinning, and my willing bride made the transition to AT primarily so that she could join in the fun. Earn it. Enjoy it.

While I’ll revisit the joys of uphill skiing later, it’s time I get around to the objective for this post: drawing attention to Santa Fe’s uphill skiing rules, (aka “Uphill Skiers Responsibility Code”).

Uphill Skiers Responsibility Code

All of the following was copied verbatim from SkiSantaFe.com and it’s worth rereading each season.

Ski Santa Fe Welcomes Uphill Skiers and Boarders. To ensure the safety of uphill and downhill skiers and boarders, please adhere to the Uphill Skiers Responsibility Code:

The following code is in place to promote everyone’s safety on the mountain. There are numerous hazards to be aware of. This is only a partial list.

Stay to the side of trails to minimize conflict with downhill traffic.

Avoid headwalls and blind corners.

Keep dogs on a leash at all times while in the ski area boundaries.

When traveling in groups, move uphill in single file.

Off to Skin Santa Fe

Off to Skin Santa Fe

STAY OFF OF TRAILS THAT HAVE SNOWMAKING IN PROGRESS. These trails will have 480 volt electrical cords and high pressure water hoses, and at times they may be just beneath the surface. They may also have very icy conditions, particularly near the snow guns. SEEK AN ALTERNATE ROUTE IF YOU SEE ANY INDICATION OF SNOW MACHINES, ELECTRICAL CORDS, OR HOSES.

Some trails are groomed with a winch cat which uses cables under extremely high tension. STAY OFF THESE TRAILS! These cables can move suddenly and change height. THEY CAN CAUSE DISMEMBERMENT OR DEATH. The following trails are the ones most often winched: Muerte, Upper Parachute, Wizard, Sunrise, and Burro Alley. This list is not comprehensive and other trails may be winched. ALWAYS GIVE SNOWCATS, SNOWMOBILES, AND ANY OTHER MACHINERY A WIDE BERTH. SEEK ALTERNATE ROUTES TO AVOID THEM.

Avalanche danger and other hazards exist both inside and outside ski area boundaries. KEEP OUT OF AREA NORTH OF THE TESUQUE PEAK TRIPLE CHAIRLIFT WHEN THERE IS NEW SNOW, as these areas may have Ski Patrol in them engaged in avalanche mitigation. Entering these areas puts you and the Ski Patrol at risk.

Skiing outside the ski area boundary is in a wild area where no avalanche mitigation measures have been taken. AVALANCHE DANGER, CLIFFS, AND OTHER NATURAL HAZARDS EXIST. THESE AREAS ARE NOT PATROLLED. You are responsible for your own safety both inside and outside the ski area boundary. Ski Patrol service is not available outside normal operating hours (9:00am to 4:00pm), or outside the ski area boundaries at any time. (SkiSantaFe.com)

See you at the Santa Fe Ski Basin!

Related articles